You should probably sniff it first.

The 10^th annual Kilimanjaro marathon was last Sunday! Myself and some other girls from the hostel did the 5k fun run. I did a lot of walking, but actually more running than I expected. It was actually a lot of fun. I’m pretty sure a Kenyan won the marathon; also I found it really funny when they announced the first white person to finish.

It was nice going back to Amani on Monday, I missed the kids after only a week! Wednesday was a hard day. The starters class is always a challenge (starters are kids who have just arrived off the streets and still need to be assessed to see which class they should join, and kids who are too far behind to join a normal class). My lesson was just completely over their heads. Thursday was great though! I changed things around and it worked out well. A singing warm-up (syllables ex b p m ss) spontaneously turned into a beat boxing lesson, it was hilarious! Then we learned row row row your boat. It’s hard to tell what will work for these kids, that song would not go over well at all with middle school kids at home. But it is completely new to these kids, and in English, so they all loved it. At the end I said “OK, who thinks they can sing it all by themselves?” and nearly all of them came up to the front of the class and sang it one at a time, very proud of themselves. At one point I had one kid beat boxing while the others sang row row row your boat, that was so funny!

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I started Swahili lessons Friday! So here is some more Swahili for your thoughts:
Jina lako nani?   -   What is your name?
Jina langu ______.   -   My name is ______.

Unatoka wapi?  -   Where do you come from?
Ninatoka Marekani.   -   I come from America.

Unaishi wapi?   -   Where do you stay?
Ninaishi Moshi.   -   I stay in Moshi.

Wewe ni nani?   -   What are you? (What do you do?)
Mimi ni mwalimu.   -   I am a teacher. 

Safari!

I did a four day safari to Lake Manyara, Serengeti, and Ngoro Ngoro crater. There were nine of us from Hostel Hoff and a couple from Vienna; in two cars.

Monday

We left Moshi on Monday morning and had a two hour drive to Arusha where we stopped at a grocery store, then another couple of hours to our first camp. We had lunch and then went off for the first day of safari! Straight away there were baboons, a three legged one ran right in front of are car! We started at Lake Manyara, it’s a forest area.

The best that day was lions up in the trees. It’s the only place where lions climb trees; they go up to get away from the tsetse flies. We also saw elephants up really close, right beside the cars. We saw seemingly endless amounts of baboons, at one point one of them was throwing stuff at our car. The campsite was great, they were nice tents on platforms, with two actual beds in each tent, and straw roofs over the tents. That night there was a fire and some traditional dancing that was a lot of fun.

Tuesday

After breakfast Tuesday morning we packed up and set off to visit a Maasai village. I’m not sure how I feel about it, it was interesting but cost 20,000 Tsh  just to get in. They greeted us with traditional dance, then did a kind of jumping dance, where they see who can jump the highest. Then we each had our own guide take us in to see the houses. They are tiny huts made of sticks and animal dung. My guide Samwel mentioned that he wants to go to Harvard University, so later I said if you come to Boston you stay with me. Because seriously what is a Maasai going to do in America? He would need someone to help him out at first. So of course he said “Your husband won’t hate me?” I said I don’t have a husband, and he said “Oh you’re single? So we’re getting married?” I told him when he comes to Boston we’ll see, haha.

On the drive leaving the village we ran into a bit of a problem. Another car had rolled over and a passenger had broken her ribs and needed to be med flighted out. But the park authorities and the Tanzanian government didn’t care and weren’t doing anything to help. Also the reason the accident happened was because the park doesn’t maintain the roads. When a driver gets in an accident he gets a penalty on his license, and that can really destroy his living. So together the guides decided that they were going to go on strike until a park official came, help for the injured person was arranged, and they promised to fix the roads. This accident happened at 10am. We arrived sometime between 1:30 and 2pm and there were already hundreds of cars there. We had lunch in the dirt beside the road (forgetting about the scorpions). It was literally the middle of  the desert, the sun beating down and no way to escape it. More cars piled up behind us and eventually there were around 400 safari cars and thousands of people. If a car tried to leave and go around people would chase them and throw stones. It would be really bad for a guide if he left and didn’t support his fellow guides. They really cooperate and communicate, letting each other know via radio where the animals are. So if a guide left he risked not getting that information and losing all of his business. Eventually some sort of official arrived and there was a big mob scene, everyone screaming and chanting and surrounding the official. He apologized and requested to speak with a smaller group. They essentially had a meeting in the middle of the desert, and after a half an hour at the very least they settled everything and we were able to go. I think around 4:30pm. We didn’t have time to do our planned Safari that day because we had to hurry to the next camp in Serengeti.

That camp was probably the worst, still not bad, but not great. The squat toilet was disgusting, better to just go in the bush. We didn’t get dinner until around 9pm, in the dark, (the cooks are usually at camp while we’re at safari so it’s all ready when we return) with rats running around the rafters and walls of the eating area. I didn’t sleep great that night, the hyaenas were right in the camp, and I heard something quite large right beside my tent, there were also zebras everywhere in camp.

Wednesday

We got up really early Wednesday, we were supposed to be up and out by 6am but we ran late and missed the sunrise. As we were eating breakfast someone noticed that there was an elephant in the camp. Everyone went over and some stupid people got way too close, I thought he was going to charge at them.

Serengeti was the best day of the trip. Just amazing amounts of animals! Quite early on we had a super pride (yes that’s the real name) of twenty-two lions cross the road right in front of our car, feet away. It was absolutely amazing, my favorite moment of the whole trip. We also were right in the middle of the great migration, thousands of zebras and wildebeast. There was always something to look at, seeing a giraffe became quite commonplace. We also saw a bunch of hippos in a pool and a small crocodile.

We then headed back to camp for lunch and to pack up the cars. To make up for the time we lost on the previous day, we did some sight seeing en route to the next camp. We saw three lazy lions sleeping on a rock. Someone had a flat tire really close to the lions, but they didn’t seem bothered. Then we got to see three cheetahs right up close, again right beside the car. Cheetahs are solitary so it’s really unusual to see so many, it was a mom and her cubs (but they were big, nearly full grown).  I’d talked to a man early who was traveling in the opposite direction and he had seen three cheetahs take down a wildebeast, so it must have been the same ones. They were tired and seemed to have full bellies. As we were driving someone noticed a lion just laying by the road so we stopped, and as we were stopped a male lion with a big mane walked right in front of us over to the female. She checked him out and sniffed him a bit, then turned him down! He stood and watched as she walked away. Eventually he followed after her.

{hopefully I can post a photo of him, but the internet is being too slow, TIA}

We then drove to Ngoro Ngoro crater. Our camp was up on the edge, and it was a pretty crazy road going up to camp. It was dark and raining by the time we got there. And really cold! I was not prepared for that weather, it was muddy and wet. We had another late dinner then headed to bed. I was really cold and everything was damp, but I fell asleep pretty quickly.

Thursday

Everything was cold and damp when we woke up at the edge of the crater. We were up and out before 6am and got to experience dawn in the crater. It was absolutely gorgeous. The animals of the Serengeti were my favorite, but the best scenery was by far Ngoro Ngoro. I took maybe one picture but was in too much awe, I just had to sit there and try to take it all in. We saw some black rhinos, from very far away though. There are only 16 left in Ngoro Ngoro crater. There are a couple in Serengeti, but I think all combined they total 25. We saw more lions up really close throughout the day. And there were hyaenas everywhere. Not phased at all by our cars. We stopped by a hippo pool for breakfast and there were these little yellow birds, and eagles, always swooping down to steal the food.

Then we had to go back up to camp, pack up and head home. After a couple hours we stopped for lunch at some unbelievably touristy shops. Then a couple more hours and we were back in Moshi town!

At first I wasn’t sure if I wanted to go on safari, but I joined this trip at the very last minute, and I’m so glad I did! I was worried amount money, $620 seems like a lot here in Africa, but I realized that when I go home I can make that back in two weeks.


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Swahili for your thoughts:

Safari - travel
Tembo - elephant
Twiga - giraffe
Simba - lion

Jambo

4 weeks in! Time has flown by so far, I still feel like I've only just arrived.

Last week at Amani we had visitors from Canada, they raised $80,300! So school stopped for the day and we had a big party. The kids put on a gymnastics show and then a jump rope show, then we had a big cake and soda. It was crazy but fun, and I've got a ton of pictures!

We did percussion in music club last week, it was slightly overwhelming but the kids enjoyed it. I've actually never taught music before, so I'm just finding my way, the language barrier makes it a bit difficult. This week we did recorders. Yesterday was rough, I had the starters (kids who have just arrived off the street) and they are really difficult to control. Today I changed my approach a bit and it was great! The kids were good, they learned a lot, and are excited to learn more notes. I think I might do recorder again next week just because they really want to know more notes. In my second class today only one out of four kids showed up, so he got a private lesson, he was really good at it! This morning I actually lost my iPod on a dalla dalla, it might have been pick pocketed, but I think I just dropped it. So I was in a bad mood all day, but the kids changed that, class was great.

I am loving it here in Moshi town. I love the culture, I can't really describe why though. I feel like I fit in more here than I do in America. That doesn't really make sense though, since I stick out like a sore thumb. The hostel is great, it's nice having all these people to come home to, the lack of privacy actually isn't bothering me at all.

This is Kelvin on the left, one of the boys who came back with us from Arusha. And Jifti on the right, he gave me a mask on my first day, he's very sweet and smart!

Arusha

As part of orientation at Amani, you accompany a street educator to Arusha to see what they do, and to see where the kids come from. We went yesterday, one street educator, three new employees and myself. In the afternoon we went to a place where a group of kids are known to hang out. They sit by a traffic light and wash windshields when the light is red. It’s a large group, lots of older ones. The street educator just went over to talk with them, and after awhile one of the “leaders” started yelling and making all kinds of accusations. He wasn’t in favor of Amani because supposedly he was there when it started and has finished school and ended up back on the streets. It got a little scary, they were threatening us and it attracted a lot of outside attention. Somehow the street educator convinced one of the younger ones to meet us in the morning and come to Amani. There was another younger one there though. He couldn’t speak up in favor of Amani because he would have been beaten when we left. He was sniffing glue while we were there, his eyes were empty and he was not very responsive. The older ones are violent and very dangerous. Amani educators go to Arusha twice a week, and I’m sure they’ll work on convincing the other little one to come to Amani. It was hard getting out because they kept following us, a couple followed us almost all the way to the hotel.

Later that night we went out to look for more kids, the Amani street educators know where they tend to sleep. We found one boy completely by accident; he was sleeping all alone on a step. We woke him up and he said that his father had died and his mother had left. He’d been living with his grandmother and for one reason or another she could no longer support him. He’d been on his own in the street since December. He readily agreed to come to Amani. He was wide-eyed and scared looking and tired. We got him some food and he agreed to meet us in the morning to come to Amani, I didn’t like leaving him out there at night. We met another boy who was living on the street by choice, because if he went home his mother would send him to school. He kind of reminded me of the Artful Dodger (from Oliver Twist), he walked with a swagger and wore a suit jacket.

The next morning we met one of the younger ones from the group, plus the boy we found on the step, and a friend of his! I don’t  know the story of the latter, but he lied and said that the two of them were brothers, because he was afraid that he wouldn’t be allowed to come to Amani. But all three of them came on the bus with us back to Moshi (a couple of hours drive). When they arrived at Amani they spoke to the nurse, then got washed up and got clean clothes. Then they got to eat a big lunch and play with the other kids. When I was done for the day I went out and played with all of the kids and ended up playing a lot with Kelvin (sp?), the boy found on the step. Last night he was so scared and hungry and sad, it was nice playing football (soccer) with him and laughing and tickling him. Today I sat on a step watching some Amani boys do AMAZING gymnastics, with Joseph John on one side of me and Kelvin on the other. I can’t think of a better way to spend my time.

First week in Africa, and first days at Amani!

This was my first week at Amani! As internet costs a lot, I’m going to write ahead of time in word and then post it in chunks.

I love Moshi town so far. It has been like a vacation up until today. It’s warm, the people are friendly and the culture is relaxed. I really feel right at home, despite the lack of running water, random power outages, dirt-covered feet, and lizards in my bedroom. But I’ve come to learn that Amani is a full time job. Up at 6:30am, walk down the road to catch the Amani dalla-dalla, there until 4pm, pay for a dalla-dalla back to the hostel.

Monday- My first day!

I have a two week orientation, so I don’t actually start teaching until the 30^th. Today started with a department meeting conducted in Swahili. I made a fool of introducing myself, I didn’t really know what to say since they all already knew about me. Then I nearly nodded off, since it’s hard to pay attention when you understand a total of 5 words in a 2.5hr meeting. The staff eats lunch with the kids, today it was rice, and an entire cow. Every part included.

Later I observed the art class (the teacher stays at the same hostel as myself). It was chaotic. The kids were all hyper from lunch and were just out of control. She had to attempt to get the correct children for the class, line them up, and get them in the classroom while holding off other kids who weren’t supposed to be there. Then she had to lock the door or they would all run in and out. They knocked and yelled outside the door for the entire class. After class she had to go out into the yard and hunt down the kids who were supposed to be in the next class, which was equally chaotic.

But with all the mayhem, they were still adorable. They made animal masks, I observed two classes and one boy in each class gave me their masks. They are all curious to talk to you and introduce themselves. It’s hard because some don’t speak any English, and most are very limited. They’re very touchy, very eager to hold your hand.  A couple of them speak English very well, so we made a deal, I’ll teach them music if they teach me Swahili!

Tuesday

I started the morning helping the cook. First I prepared the spinach, with the help of a girl who didn’t speak any English, maybe 12 years old, and an adorable 5 year old, I think called Basi. There are two little ones, their older siblings attend Amani, but they are too young so they just kind of hang out there and wander. One boy and one girl, both adorable. It was nice and calm and quiet sitting with them preparing spinach and then peeling garlic (I might still smell like garlic). Myself and a visitor also washed all of the dishes.

After tea time I talked with nurse Rovina, who has been at Amani for nearly ten years. Pretty much a school nurse deal, except she brings the children to the hospital when necessary, and has to bring two of them to the hospital every month for HIV medication. Next I had some time set aside to read Amani volunteer handouts, lots of reading!

Lunch was ugali, it has the consistency of mashed potatoes, and you eat it with beans and spinach. It was interesting, filling, and something you have to experience, but I can’t exactly say that I liked it.  After lunch I was back in the art room while waiting to meet with the director, who never had time to see me. The kids were pretty hyper today, and at one point a fight broke out in class. It was a tough class.

You can’t tell how old the kids are. Many have been malnourished, so they are small, and they have all grown up on the streets, so that act younger than their age. There is one boy who is 16 but he looks maybe 10. I have been warned that he can be violent and not to let him touch me, but he has been very well behaved so far.

I forgot to bring a bathing suit! Everyone went to the pool the other day and I couldn’t swim. I don’t have short shorts either because I was told to bring modest clothing. I went to the new “western” grocery store today because I heard there were bathing suits there, but they were too expensive. I’m going to stop by Mary’s tomorrow to have some shorts made. A bunch of girls from the hostel are going to the hot springs this weekend so I’d like to join.

Wednesday

Most of Wednesday was meeting with different people and talking about the reunification process and other things. In the afternoon I observed a class, but it was all in Swahili so it wasn’t all that interesting.

Thursday

This morning I presented my ideas for the music club to the education coordinator, it’s beginning to take shape. It looks like my class will be at 4pm, and maybe a second class at 5pm, depending on how many kids can sign up for the class. I’d rather be done at 5, since it would be harder to get back home at 6. Then I met with someone to learn about the action learning cycle. Now I am back at Hostel Hoff, I’ll go back to Amani at 4 to see what the night caregivers do.

This is Peanut, he lives at Hostel Hoff :)

This is Africa

All settled in Moshi town! I'm sitting out on the patio in the heat, with a dog stretched out by my feet. I had a mango from the tree out front for lunch today, there's also a banana tree. The whole town is without water, I bathed in a bucket last night. It's so hot here though that you really need to bathe every day, I guess that's not going to happen.

My baggage all made it here fine, I was a bit worried about that. No one was there to meet me at the airport, and it was a bit stressful, but there were a lot of taxi drivers there who took care of me, one of them used his phone to call Salma, got no answer for quite awhile, but eventually she did, and the driver arranged everything for me! People are very nice here, there was only one rude man there who tried to get me to pay him to use his phone, and when I said I had no money he laughed and said "so what are you going to do?" and was kind of an jerk.

I got a brief tour of town this morning, got a sim card, but didn't put any money on it! That was stupid, and you have to wait ages to top up. I will have to try to find the place again later....I did wander into town on my own today! I was hesitant, but I gave in and did it, and it's so small that you can just wander around and not get lost.

Hostel Hoff is pretty nice, they have some tents in the back that I might try to get a bed in if one clears up. There are all kinds of people here doing different volunteer jobs and staying for different amounts of time. They all seem to be here to travel though, talking about all the places they're going, and going out to drink etc. I don't have the money to do any of that, so it's a bit strange. I wasn't expecting that type of environment. I think I'm headed to the shop with some people, so I'll update again later.

Oh, and regarding the title...when something doesn't work, ex. no water, no internet, people just say "This is Africa", it's kind of like eh, it happens, what can you do? No worries.

Marafiki wa zamani - Old Friends

I think I'm starting to get excited! Its about time!

I may have just found a cheaper alternative in regards to accommodation, but I'll have to check it out ahead of time. Make sure it's close enough to Amani, safe, and has interwebs. I would have my own room, so that would be really nice. I am staying at Hostel Hoff for the month of January though, it is very westernized, and comes with built in friends! So that will be a nice transition. The only thing I would worry about if I stayed at the Kilimanjaro Inn is that I wouldn't have as many people to hang out with. I also need to ask if I can book long term, since online it only seems to show 31 days at a time. Lots of "ifs," but it seems worth checking out when I arrive.

Brockley, where I've been staying with friends in London.

I just realized that I leave London Wednesday night, not morning, so I have another whole day here! I've been around some of the places I used to frequent, and walked by where I used to live. It's a very strange feeling, I can't really describe it. It feels normal, being with all my old friends, going to the pub, chatting for ages in the kitchen. But, it's strange that it feels normal, so much in my life has changed since I left London in June of 2010.

I booked a flight home! I didn't realize until right before I left Massachusetts that I can take at least 3 travel weeks during my 6 month volunteer time. If I had realized that before, I would have just booked a round trip flight, which, as it turns out, costs half as much as what I ended up booking...but oh well, no changing that now. And if I had booked round trip I wouldn't have been able to stop in London! I booked a flight for July 1st, stop in Kenya, then Rome, then Washington D.C., then I will be in Boston on July 2nd! Just in time to go down the Cape for the 4th of July and get some quality family time.

I really did have a wonderful Christmas this year. Maybe knowing that you're going away makes seeing family that much more exciting, I'm not sure, but I just had a wonderful time! With my family as well as John's.

I'm at a different friend's in London now. From Wednesday-this morning (Monday) I stayed with British friends, the same people that I used to live with. Now I'm with an American friend who did the same study abroad program that I did back in 2009-10.

I am missing everyone, but the way I see it, January will be over by the time I'm settled in Moshi town, so I'll have two months until John visits. Then after he leaves about 2 months until I get home. Slightly unrealistic, I know, there are a couple weeks unaccounted for there, but I think it is a healthy way to look at things.